Clapton, Estrogen, and Frank

(Posted November 16, 2010)

Four days in the dank, cool confines of an annex to the Canterbury Raceway trying to sell books to hordes of women clutching their pocketbooks to their chests as tightly as drunks clutching booze. Estrogen so strong in the place, I feel my manhood at risk.

Wednesday evening before Veteran’s Day. I drive from work to the Twin Cities, listening to a re-run of a MPR production honoring WWI veterans. Most folks have forgotten there was a “War to End all Wars” before the “Big One”. Most folks don’t know that, in the United States, there’s no official memorial to the veterans of the Great War on the Mall in D.C. and that we have one living WWI veteran left in America. Frank Buckles is his name. He’s now 109 years old. When the MPR program was produced, Frank was “a mere spritlely lad” of 106. Now he’s one of the oldest (if not the oldest) men in America. The program was just in time. The other vets who were interviewed have passed on;  the radio program a fitting memorial to their service during a war that made absolutely no sense.

It’s possible to honor their sacrifice and not honor the stupidity of the politicians who sent them to war.

My mantra has an edge of the present about it as I drive south, Clapton’s new album playing on the CD changer.

That old boy can flat out play.

I set up my booth at the raceway, hopeful, as always, that I’ll make a few bucks and retire some of the debt I’ve accumulated while trying to sell my books to strangers. I’ve done festivals, bookstores, and libraries over the past ten years from Youngstown, Ohio to Denver, Colorado; from Des Moines, Iowa to Calgary, Alberta. I’ve met a whole lot of nice people; rubbed elbows with interesting folks like American folk music icon, Bill Stains (we taught workshops at the same small arts retreat); spent the weekend after 9/11 in deserted Barnes and Noble stores in Milwaukee and Madison; crashed a rental car in Winnipeg: All in the name of literary glory to little, if any, positive impact on the bottom line.

Maybe this show will be different.

Thursday morning. I wake up and watch “Cliff Hanger”, a Sly Stalone flick at my wife’s sister and brother-in-law’s place in Lakeville. Red breasted cardinals flit in and out of the trees outside the kitchen window; birds so stark and vibrant against the dead landscape of early winter that their passionate color demands my attention as I eat cold cereal with my niece and nephew. Then the kids are off to school, leaving me to get ready for the festival. I arrive at Canterbury in plenty of time but do not sell plenty of books. The one saving grace to the day? My friend and folk musician Pat Surface gives me a copy of his latest CD which I promise I’ll listen to on the drive back to the couch in the Schostag’s basement. Of course, I promptly forget the CD as I leave the festival for the day; my memory lapse a product of advancing age.

Friday I sell a few more books, though, from the number of Packers and Vikings jerseys, jackets, and ball caps that pass by my booth, it’s clear the crowd is not (how does one put this delicately?) a book buying group. I’ve found this to be true: The more football apparel worn at an event, the less likely I’ll have significant sales. Canterbury proves to be no exception.

During ten hours of torturous selling, my back aching from standing on cold concrete; my nose stuck in Staggerford by Jon Hassler; I also catch snippets of conversation between other vendors worrying about a predicted storm.

Likely overreacting.

When I arrive at my sister-in-law’s for the evening, my wife and youngest son are there for a visit. We watch television before Rene’ and I collapse on a partially inflated inflatable bed in the basement for a fitful night of little sleep.

Saturday morning. The rumors of big snow turn out to be true. Heavy wetness falls unabated in the early morning hours until the roads between Lakeville and Shakopee are reduced to rutted paths. I take it slow; the all-wheel-drive of my Pacifica doing its best to keep me on the road despite the mess.

No one is crazy enough to come to a craft show in a blizzard.

Of course, I’m wrong. I’ve underestimated the power of estrogen. Though the nearly all female crowd is modest, I sell a few more books; not enough to save the weekend from disaster but enough to soften my disappointment. By noon, the snow has stopped and the crowd picks up. By the time I get back to the Schostag’s, the electricity is out, though, because Allen is, like a Boy Scout, “always prepared”, a gasoline generator is purring away in a snow drift outside the dining room. We have enough power to cook a roast, cool a good bottle of wine (which I pretty much drink by myself), operate a flat screen television, and run the well and septic.

Sunday morning. I awaken to a sense of failure; a sense of God wanting to tell me something as I sit in my booth, Staggerford a completed project, my eyes riveted on Hassler’s The Love Hunter. I wait for all the folks who couldn’t make it through yesterday’s storm. The crowd never swells.  A middle-aged woman steps into my booth and starts up a conversation.

“You don’t remember me, do you?”

“No, I don’t.”

“You represented me. Corina was my daughter.”

Then it becomes clear who she is, what her story was: The woman had suffered the worst nightmare a parent can suffer: the loss of a child.

“Your case was one of the only cases where I didn’t understand what the jury was thinking. Of course I remember.”

I’d lost her case after seven tortured days in trial. We talk some more. I tell her that the opening chapter in my novel Pigs, while not a verbatim rendition of her pain or her loss, had its genesis in her daughter’s story. We haven’t seen each other in 25 years and yet, once I understand who the woman is, the case, the courtroom, the defeat surge over me in a wave of disappointing memory. She buys a copy of Pigs. She makes my day.

Then, the show is over. I make six trips through residual slush and muck with my two-wheeled cart stacked with boxes and plastic bins full of unsold books. I pack my stuff into the cargo bay of the Pacifica. It’s pitch black outside. Vendors hustle and bustle, pulling or pushing carts and dollies loaded with their wares in a carefully orchestrated ballet of departure. In the van, Pat’s voice rings high and clear. The Bell of the Ball plays as I stomp on the accelerator. The Chrysler exits the Canterbury Downs parking lot. I head north on Highway 169, singing bad harmony with my friend. I hope he doesn’t mind.

Peace.

Mark

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Ashley, North Dakota

(Posted November 1, 2010)

We’ve been here four days. My 83 year old father, my sons Matt and Chris, my father’s buddy (and serial eater) Bruce, and two dogs have staked out our claim to North Dakota’s pheasants. Only Chris has been productive, hitting most of the birds he’s shot at. I’ve been dismal behind the sights of my twelve gauge over-under. Matt has been worse. But his yellow Labrador, Lexi, and a little Springer, Windsor,  a dog borrowed from Chris’ buddy Massie (who’s undergoing a kidney transplant back home as his dog stalks birds on the prairie) have been such a joy to hunt with, just watching the two dogs work is a reward unto itself.

Then there are the old guys, men who once couldn’t wait to get out into the field before the sun; men who now sip that third cup of morning coffee and think about how nice another twenty minutes of sleep would be. They’ve shot a couple of roosters. Very stupid birds who walked out in front of my old man’s Tahoe and stood like statues so that Bruce could pop them both off with a single shot. Two birds with one shot. That’s a feat for anyone, let along a guy who spends more time over the cereal bowl than in the field.

The weather has been horrible. The three of us and the dogs are working a sixty acre patch of wide open conservation land adjacent to a corn field. We hunted the same patch at dusk yesterday and kicked out a mother lode of roosters and hens, only to miss most of them. Today we’re facing torrential rains, sleet, snow, and wind coming out of Canada in gusts between thirty and forty miles per hour. Even migrating geese and ducks know better than to be moving around on a day like today.

“Those Huns might be on the far side of that rise,” I say to the boys as we creep up a sharp change in elevation towards a boulder strewn thicket. “We might get a shot at ’em.”

The birds, not Hungarian partridge, but a covey of sharptailed grouse  (cousins of the ruffed and spruce grouse of my native NE Minnesota) rise from the far side of the ridge long before we’re in range.

“Shit”.

Twelve round-bodied birds flutter furiously against the wind. It appears we’ll have no shot. But then, the sharpies do the inexplicable. They turn to catch the wind. Briefly, they’re suspended in midair as they try to take advantage of the gale.

“They’re coming back,” Matt says.

We raise our shotguns. Three barrels bark. A single partridge falls. I hit one, about thirty yards out, as it stalled in the wind.

“Nice shot, Dad,” Chris says.

“Crap.”

“What’s wrong, Matt?” I ask my eldest son.

“Gun’s jammed.”

To shorten this piece, we’ll fast forward past all the swear words and machinations between Matt, Chris, me, and Matt’s Remington 870. The long and the short of it is that Matt stomps off towards his Nissan pickup a quarter mile away; his shotgun in two parts; our meager knowledge of field stripping and reassembling a Remington thwarted by weather.

“He’s not happy,” I observe.

“Not at all.”

As Matt makes the crest of the hillock on his way to retrieve another gun, sharpies rise from beneath his feet like doves ascending before Jesus. The birds flap furiously in the wind. Their departure is the last straw: We watch Matt launch pieces of his inert shotgun at the retreating birds.

“Now that’s funny,” I say, holding my gut as Matt kicks furiously at wind-swept grass.

“It sure is,” Chris agrees. “But I don’t think we should bring it up later.”

My eldest picks up the pieces of his gun and moves on. Chris and I go about the business of hunting. The wind howls. The dogs try to work but the gale is so strong, any scent that’s around dissipates like fairy dust. We stop and watch Matt crest another rise. Again, the sharpies take wing from beneath his boots. This time, Matt controls his temper and simply watches as the birds catch the wind.

That night, the five of us sip beer and watch the World Series in the little white house we’ve rented in downtown Ashley. Outside, the wind continues to pummel the land. Snow continues to fall. Inside, the dogs sleep heavily, their exhausted bodies curled tight against the storm. It isn’t long before the story of Matt throwing his shotgun at a covey of sharptailed partridge becomes the topic of conversation.

Peace.

Mark

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The Boys Are Back

(Posted October 3,2010)

6:30am. Saturday. October. I’m in my writing studio. Instead of working on my latest novel (my fifth) I find myself looking out a window and studying the Cloquet River, a wide (and due to drought) shallow slash of black water slowly making its way west, to its confluence with the source of Lake Superior and all the other Great Lakes; the St. Louis River. Golden light creeps across the short green grass of our lawn. The sun’s tentacles stretch over a ridge of trees, bathing the old Sears farmhouse we once owned in clean yellow light. It’s morning on the river.

Boom. Boom. Boom.

The report of shotguns being emptied echoes through the river valley.

Boom. Boom. Boom.

That’s Chris and his buddies, I surmise. Sounds like they’ve got plenty to shoot at.

Robbie, Becker, Rodlund, and Chris greeted morning at the Munger Farm a little later than they wanted to.

“You look sort of tired,” I said to Chris when he and his three hunting buddies gathered for breakfast in the kitchen of our house, sunlight already gathering to the east, the boys’ desire to make it onto the water before dawn thwarted by delay.

“Celebrated my boss’ birthday last night,” my son replies. “Too much celebrating.”

I smile. I remember my own young adulthood and all the “celebrating” I did. I let the comment pass. Chris cooks eggs and bacon for his crew. The boys make a youthful attempt at cleaning up their mess before Becker sounds the alarm.

“There’s a guy canoeing down the river. His canoe is full of decoys.”

“We better haul ass,” Robbie says, “or he’ll take our spots.”

The boys make it to their blinds. Shotguns bark and I imagine beautiful green headed mallards and darting teal falling from the sky, the ducks retrieved not by dogs (for the group has no dog with it) but by canoe.

My guess at what took place isn’t far from reality. When the boys come back to the house for lunch, Robbie hefts two Giant Canada geese aloft for me to admire.

“Nice geese. Who shot ’em?”

“Me.”

“Chris get anything?”

“Nope.”

It is a gorgeous early October day. The boys are hunting local ducks and geese, birds that were raised on or near the river. Manitoba waterfowl haven’t been pushed south by weather as yet. And since the Cloquet isn’t a major flyway (the brimmingly full potholes of the Dakotas having usurped the lakes and streams of Minnesota in that regard) even when the weather turns and bitter winds and rain blow in from Canada, few migrating ducks and geese will traverse the Cloquet on their journey to the Gulf of Mexico.

The boys hunt until 4:00pm, the time set for waterfowl hunting to end the first weekend of the season. They take four dandy mallards (elegantly colored greenheads  that have been fattening up for the trip south) in addition to the geese.

That evening, Massie joins the group with his dog. Chris opens a jar of Rene’s homemade spaghetti sauce (just canned from this year’s crop of tomatoes and the best sauce you’ve ever tasted), boils a ton of noodles, and feeds the hungry crew. The hunters gather in front of a roaring fire a stone’s throw from the black water of the river to relive the day’s exploits. The sun is gone. Evening, its ebony veil punctured by eerily shifting stars, descends. The night grows quiet. Conversation wanes. The last beer is finished and the boys tumble into the basement and find beds. They’re soon fast asleep. They’ve vowed to get up before dawn, ready to hunt. And that they do.

By the time dusk falls on Sunday, the hunters have bagged six nice Giant Canada geese, six mallards, a pair of wood ducks, a hell diver, and a couple of wayward mergansers.

“You guys have fun?” I ask Robbie as he walks tiredly from the fire ring where they group assembled to clean birds towards his car.

I’ve spent Sunday afternoon pulling carrots, potatoes and onions from our vegetable garden; trimming my precious black raspberry canes; cutting and baling cornstalks for our church’s harvest sale; and tilling the garden for the final time this year. I’ve listened intently for shotgun fire in the near distance, appreciating that, with every discharge, the boys are experiencing the very reason I love living where I do.

“You bet. Thanks for letting us stay overnight. And for letting us hunt here.”

“No problem. That’s what it’s for.”

Chris and Massie aren’t back yet. Though waterfowl hunting is closed for the day, they’re back on one of my trails with the dog, hunting grouse.

They won’t be back until dark.

I look up at the clear blue sky. I take a deep breath, inhaling the smell of aspen leaves and autumn.

There’s no better place.

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Meatloaf for Breakfast

(September 29, 2010)

It’s seven-thirty. I’m driving my youngest son, Jack, to school. I have a surprise for him. Instead of nasal sounding Bobby Zimmerman, this morning we’re going to listen to something louder, something orchestral, something guitar driven, bu still lyrical. Jim Steinman’s youthful indiscretions channeled through the Big Man. No, not Clarence Clemons. Meatloaf. That’s right. The guy who, when “Two Out of Three ain’t Bad” was at the top of the charts, came on SNL and blew his appearance. He sucked so bad that night, I actually turned the channel. But hey, you gotta love a guy who dusts himself off and keeps at it. Like a certain regional fiction writer we all know. Am I right?

“Bat Out of Hell” blares. Rundgren’s guitar sings. Meatloaf belts out the tune like he’s seventeen years old. Bittan’s fingers tickle the ivories. Weinberg thumps the skins. The music is an awesome wall of teenage angst driven by a tight band, eloquent vibrato, and campy lyrics.It’s a whale of a lot of fun.

“Did you ever see Meatloaf in concert?”

My son’s question comes as I am assisting Meatloaf by adding some slightly off-key harmony.

“Nope. But I’ve seen the guy playing guitar, Todd Rundgren, and most of the others.”

“Is the band still together?”

“It’s not a band: It’s a group of session players, guys Jim Steinman, the producer, pulled together. Out on the road, it’s likely a different group.”

We drive on. I drop the kid off. I turn up the volume. “Two Out of Three” comes on. Now I’m signing at the top of my lungs. I don’t know why. I don’t sing nearly as often as I used to. Maybe I’ve heard too many critiques. Maybe being surrounded by the residue of crime and the sad, sad stories I hear everyday in my “real” job likely has taken a toll over the past 12 years. Maybe the birds don’t sound as sweet as they once did, the sun’s just a tad less bright, and my heart is a bit heavier as a result of having vicariously endured the tragedies the befall others. Understand, I know I have a great life. A great woman. Fine sons. A fantastic corner of the world on a beautiful river. I thank God every day for those things. But somehow, the world has a way of sneaking into your psyche, of breaching your defenses, of eroding happiness.

But not today. Today, for whatever reason, I started off in the shower singing Queen. You can guess the song, right? “Bohemian Rhapsody”. All the parts I could remember anyway. I’m no Freddy Mercury. No one can duplicate his voice. But I gave it a try in the shower and no one complained.

So as I bob my head and sing Steinman’s lyrics in my Pacifica on the way in, sometimes screwing up the words, sometimes hitting a sour note, but every once and awhile, hitting the tune out of the park, things are alright. Meatloaf for breakfast isn’t a bad thing despite what my mom might say.

Peace

Mark

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Selling Rene’s Benches

(Posted September 20, 2010)

Chester Bowl.The place where Elwood Ramfjord tried to make me into a ski jumper. I was eight and terrified of Rabbit Ears, a small bump of a jump. Elwood got me to go off that nob a time or two before I surrendered to my fear and, trembling and crying after another crash, gave up. Pure and simple: I ended my Nordic Olympic dreams in second grade. In high school, Duluth East held an alpine race or two on the small downhill runs carved into the hillside above Chester Creek. I did OK on alpine skis; I was less terrified and, in the end, made my mark as a pretty fair skier.

Today I’m in the park surrounding the old ski hill and the last remaining ski jump scaffold, Little Chester, trying to sell books to Duluthians during FallFest. There’s an autumnal chill in the air. In fact, it’s so darn cold, I’m double layered as I sit in my EZ Up and read: First, the newspaper; then Glimmer Train magazine. A few friends and familiar faces stop by. The sun climbs above the steep hills enclosing the little creek valley. I sell no books. But universally, those who stop by are enamoured by my wife’s mosaic benches. You’ve heard me describe them before: concrete behemoths that I’m required, as part of my husbandly duties, to tote to every craft and art festival I’m in. Chester Bowl is no exception. I unloaded six of the beauties from my Pacifica and they’re all arrayed in my tent. Anyway, folks love Rene’s work. A few keep coming back. I sell a book here and there but the real attraction in my booth this day is my wife’s artwork, not my writing.

My sister Annie, my brother-in-law Dave, and their two daughters stop in the say hello. Annie takes a twenty from me and returns with some health food to cure my sour mood (mini-donuts) before ambling off in search of produce. There are farmers here with fresh corn, apples, and other foods that are actually good for you. I relish the dough and sugar and fat and couldn’t care less about the consequences as I down mini-donut after mini-donut in a misguided attempt to cure my funk.

“Will you deliver the bench? I don’t have my car. I walked here.”

“How far away?”

“A few blocks.”

A deal is stuck. A woman pays for a hummingbird-themed composite bench and writes her address on the back of one of my business cards so I can drop the bench off at her home after the festival closes.

There’s something wrong about me taking orders for Rene’s work on the back of a Cloquet River Press business card.

The envy is palpable. Then it gets worse. I sell one of the two big concrete benches I have with me for sale. In the matter of a few moments, my wife has made more money on two items than I’ve made over the past two weekends selling books. Thankfully, I don’t have to deliver the concrete bench: The folks who buy it are volunteers at FallFest and will simply pick it up at the end of the day.

The crowd winds down.Competing candidates for St. Louis county attorney have handed out their last buttons. I’m done in. I’ve read the last short story of the day.It’s time to go home.

Peace.

Mark

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Dar, Lucy, the Kormans, and Columbine

(Posted September 13, 2010)

Harvest Moon Festival in Ely: The three day festival celebrates not only the end of summer but also serves as a place for Voyageur re-enactors to ply their wares and skills. It’s also one of my best venues in terms of book sales.

Friday morning. Another lost vacation day from my “real” job as judge. I drive north once again on Highway No. 4. Seems like I was just up this road, doesn’t it? Well, I was; last weekend when I drove to Brimson. Just not as far north is all. This time, my Chrysler is loaded to the hilt. My wife Rene’ just had foot surgery. So I packed a few mosaic garden benches she created (some of which are solid concrete and weigh over 200#) in the back of the Pacifica to sell in Ely along with my books. I’m hopeful some benches will sell so I don’t have to load them back into the van for the trip home on Sunday.

Dar Williams plays softly over the CD changer. This is an all girl trip (except for the driver): I’ve loaded the disc changer with Dar Williams and Lucy Kaplansky cds. “I’m Not Your Yoko Ono” is playing as I pass a magnificent bald eagle, likely a male by the size of the bird, perched on the dead carcass of a white tail in the left ditch. As I slow the van, the bird watches me with a keen gaze but doesn’t budge from his feast. I drive on.

In Ely’s Whiteside Park, I unload the van, set up my tent, and arrange my books and those god-awful heavy benches my wife has sent with me. It’s cool but no rain falls despite the overcast sky.

A perfect harvest day.

Once the EZ up is secure and my display is in place, I wander over and say hi to friend and folk musician, Pat Surface, and his wife, Donna. Good people, those two: Always willing to share their knowledge of this crazy festival game. After a brief chat, I stroll on. As I walk, I change my mind about skipping breakfast.

Might as well have some cakes and sausage. Need some fuel to keep warm against the day.

I buy breakfast to go from the Lions and head back to my booth to eat by myself.

By five, I’m eyeballing the time. I’m supposed to attend to a dinner honoring legendary Ely conservationist and teacher, Sigurd Olsen. I close up my tent a half-hour early and race to the Grand Ely Lodge, where the dinner is being held. I gather clean clothes from the rear of the van, walk into the hotel lobby, and find the men’s room where I change into attire more appropriate for a fundraiser. At the bar, I pay for two Blues (don’t want to have to wait ten minutes for a second beer). I find an empty chair at a table dominated by Duluthians. They invite me to sit. I oblige. Dinner is great; the company, better. During the presentation following dinner, I learn some things about Sig I didn’t know. I say my goodbyes and leave.

My budget is tight. Many times, I rely upon the kindness of friends for places to crash. Harvest Moon is no exception. After dinner, I drive to the Korman place on White Iron Lake, where Dennis and Roxanne Korman are letting me hang my hat for the weekend. By the time the Kormans and other family members shuffle in from watching the Ely-Carlton football game, it’s time for lights out.

Saturday is cold, windy, miserable, and unproductive. That’s how I’d describe the day. I sell little, which, despite the poor weather, is unusual for Harvest Moon.  I see few folks wandering past my booth with purchases.

The economy. It’s got to be the economy.

It’s that, but it’s also more than that. When I arrived in the park Saturday morning, there were EZ UPs strewn about the place, the result of a torrential downpour and vicious winds overnight. My ten-year-old tent was battered, but undefeated. That’s because I always make a point of covering the roof of my EZ Up with a cheap tarp. The tarp is a wise investment: For twenty bucks, my space stays dry: Rain runs right off. Without the tarp, the rain would pool on the roof and the thin material would sag. When wind catches such an overstressed canopy, the result is total mayhem. I share this information with a neighbor whose tent frame is now a metal pretzel due to the combined force of rain and wind. Thankfully, another vendor lends the guy her tent. She’s selling metal sculpture that’s impervious to weather and doesn’t sweat sitting outside, protected only by a hand-held umbrella.

The kindness of strangers…

In my tent, protected from wind and drizzle, I eat JR’s beef, sip Dorothy Molter root beer, and read Wally Lamb; The Hour I First Believed. The beginning of the novel is mesmerizing and describes, in succinct prose, the horror of the Columbine massacre. But in the end, the gigantic work (over 700 pages long) disappoints. I like Wally Lamb. I consider his writing to be fine literary fiction. But…

(You can read more about the book under the tab “Mark’s Reviews” above. Don’t want to give it all away here.)

Sunday morning, I make coffee, pack my gear in the van, and motor away from the Korman house before anyone else stirs. I repeat the exercise of the past two mornings; I buy blueberry pancakes and sausage from the Lions and have a proper breakfast while finishing Lamb’s book. My own book sales over the course of the day, a beautiful autumn day by any measure, disappoint. I sell fewer books here over three days than I did in a half hour in Brimson. Go figure.

After a taxing weekend of meager sales and uncooperative weather, I begin the arduous process of leaving Ely. I’m disheartened that I didn’t sell a single garden bench (though many shoppers “oohed and aahed” over my wife’s artwork). As I load concrete benches into the Pacifica, I conclude that I’m not a fan of recessions.

Peace.

Mark

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Greg Brown, the Finns, and Petrell Hall

(Posted September 9, 2010)

Sunday morning. Labor Day weekend. Most guys are loading up their fishing boats, lashing canoes to their cars, or tuning up their mountain bikes for a long ride over the long weekend. Me? I’m headed north again, up Highway No. 4, towards Brimson, Minnesota, a little hamlet an hour north of my home. Kathy Unger, a lady I’ve bumped into from time to time amongst the Finns of NE Minnesota, invited me to come to the Hall’s annual Labor Day Pancake Feed as a guest speaker and talk about Suomalaiset: People of the Marsh, my book about the Finns coming to Minnesota. If you’ve been following this blog at all, you know it’s my best selling book and that Finns buy it with a frenzy. I may not be much of a businessman (check out the pool of red beneath my Cloquet River Press ledger), but I know a good thing when it’s offered. Of course, I said “yes.”

The sun is rising as the wheels of my Pacifica turn and tires hum against asphalt. The ditches are lined with specters of morning fog; wafting ghosts of summer fighting against the advent of autumn’s chill. I turn on the radio and switch from nauseous talk radio to KUMD, a local college music station. “Tent Show Radio”, a program recorded in Bayfield, Wisconsin in a big blue and gray tent, is on. Charlie Parr, a phenomenal roots guitar player and songwriter is playing slide. His fingers dance on frets. Music echos inside the car. And then, the main event takes over the Big Top stage.

Greg Brown, an Iowa singer-songwriter married to an equally talented singer-songwriter, Iris DeMent, strums his battered acoustic. His sparse guitar style is accented by his deep bass voice; a voice that recalls the antique diaphone foghorn in Duluth’s harbor. If you’ve never heard the foghorn or Greg Brown, try to hit the lowest note you can imagine; and then take it down another octave. That’s Brown and the foghorn at their respective bests. Add creative lyrics and music that recall the pioneers of folk and country, and, well, it’s a winning combination. I nearly drive off the pavement listening to “The Fat Boy Blues” (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9je4m_movie1-fatboy-blues_music),  chortling out loud at the line: ” I don’t know how it happened, I ain’t no Elvis P., I woke up one morning just as fat as I can be.” Music and the road; ain’t nothing I like better…Well, maybe one or two things but I can’t talk about ’em here!

Google maps has me driving straight north on Highway No. 44 past Indian Lake, past Hugo’s Place (if you haven’t had a beer at Hugo’s, you haven’t lived), and taking a right hand turn at the end of 44. I arrive at the highway’s terminus. Pavement continues to the west, towards the Mesabi Iron Range. But I have to turn east, towards Two Harbors. I’m staring at gravel.

Shit. No one said nothin’ about a gravel road.

I turn onto class five. My apprehension at facing miles of dusty rural road are unfounded. I see cars and trucks parked along both ditches just a short jaunt ahead.

“I’m the speaker guy,” I say to a man directing traffic.

“Kathy’s got a special parking spot reserved for you, up by the building, so you can unload.”

I wave “thanks”, follow the guy’s directions, and park my van on the grass next to the building.

A couple dozen folks are eating pancakes under a big awning on the lawn of the old hall. I stop and admire the handiwork of the building. A sign on an obvious addition to the original hand hewn dovetailed log building, a structure built by the Finnish settlers of the region, reads “Petrell Hall, 1912.” I wander into the old hall. I’m immediately impressed.

The wood floor is newly sanded and varnished. The darker wainscoting shines from polish. The old tin walls and ceiling are freshly painted. Row upon row of folding chairs await an audience. At the far end of the room, a stage rises from the wood floor, complete with an ornate lectern that I learn was crafted from the cabinet of the hall’s original piano when the tuner said the instrument had given up the ghost. Behind the lectern, a painted screen depicts the region; a bright green and blue landscape dominated by white birch. The screen is familiar to me: I’ve seen countless other painted screens, just like this one, in countless other Finn halls across the U.S.; remnants of the Finnish social and theater groups that once provided entertainment for the settlers of these isolated burgs.

I find Kathy, confirm my arrival, organize books for sale on a table, and grab breakfast. I have a nice time chatting with a guy named Tom, a retired graphic artist originally from South Dakota, who has a cottage on a little lake nearby. That’s the thing about this little traveled area of northeastern Minnesota: The lakes are small; tiny jewels of glistening silver set against miles and miles of new forest. Folks that buy or build a lake cottage in Brimson, Minnesota aren’t thinking jet skis or MacMansions; they’re after peace, tranquility, and a snippet of  bygone era. Petrell Hall fits that notion.

Folks come and go. I worry that no one will stay to hear my talk or buy my books.  A local politician works the crowd, seeking votes for her re-election. I say hello to the candidate and then, it’s time for my reading.

I’m amazed. The little hall, hidden from most everything, built in the middle of nowhere, is filled to the rafters with folks who want to learn more about me, my writing, and Suomalaiset. All the seats are filled and then some. There must be a hundred folks crammed into the space. I read a few selections and talk about my research into the death of Olli Kinkkonen. We share some laughs. I take questions, wrap up my talk, and sell and sign more books in the following half hour than I’ve sold at any event, anywhere.

Kiitos, Kathy.

Mark

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Hackensack and The Boss

(Posted August 29, 2010)

The road is familiar. When I was a lawyer, I had a hog farmer client, Bob Briard, who lived between Park Rapids and Detroit Lakes off Highway No.  34. So I’ve traveled Minnesota Highway No. 200, between U.S. No. 2 and Walker, where you turn on 34, probably over 100 times. I know the hills, the swamps, the conifers, the broad leaf trees, the watering holes (both human and animal) like the back of my hand.
As my Pacifica glides (it’s one sweet ride) over the asphalt, The Boss is playing on the CD changer. “The Rising”, his response to 9/11 echoes inside the van. Since I fancy myself a writer, words have always been the most important component of a song for me. It’s why CSN&Y was “my Beatles”: their songs had words that either told a story, or made me ponder, back when my musical tastes were being formed. Same thing with Dylan. And Mary Chapin Carpenter. And of course, The Boss. I listen to his tunes as the tires pound the pavement, caught in the wonder of Springsteen’s well of creativity. And of course, in my off-tune second tenor (I lost the sweet soprano of my youth to puberty), I sing harmony with the E-Street Band. I sound like shit. But there’s no one else in the car so who gives a damn?Hackensack, Minnesota. A town of two hundred plus. The little tourist trap just off 200 seems an unlikely venue to ply my words. But if you thought that, you’d be mistaken. Despite the smallness of the place, the folks here like art, like writers. There are not only dozens of arts and craft vendors situated in the Community Center (where I have my table) and in white canopied EZ Ups along the street outside the Center; the entire social hall of Hackensack’s Congregational Church is filled to the brim with words: Writers of all stripes, shapes, and sizes are here to sell books. There’s not a famous one among us but who the hell cares so long as folks buy what we have to say? 

At the end of the day, my supplies of Pigs exhausted, my attempts to sell Mr. Environment less than fruitful, my stock of Suomalaiset lightened considerably, I pack my stuff back into the Pacifica. The road hums beneath the rubber. The Boss is still singing. And life is good.

Peace.

Mark

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The Garden

(Posted Augsut 24, 2010)
I’m a northern Minnesota boy. Sitting on a plastic gardener’s bench in the middle of towering cornstalks pulling weeds in eighty-five degree heat isn’t my natural environment. But as long as my wife, my sons, and I have lived on the banks of the Cloquet River, we’ve had a vegetable garden.
Of course, when we moved into the old Sears and Roebuck farmhouse upriver, our first home in Fredenberg Township, the first gardens we planted were large: We included virtually anything and everything that can be grown in northeastern Minnesota. Sometimes we experimented with exotics, like sweet potatoes, baby watermelons, and cantaloupes, which, while fun when they thrived (maybe one out of every ten years) were really a waste of time and space. The more common, the mundane, including peas, wax beans, green beans, radishes, and a host of other edible vegetables; they too crowded those original garden plots, screaming for weeding and attention. But it was too much. The time, between summer hockey, soccer, vacation, work and church, was too short.The first thing to go was the strawberry bed. Too much work for too little reward. Then the vegetable plot itself lost a third of its original, ambitious girth. And when we moved into our new place downriver from the old farmhouse, the size of the vegetable garden shrunk yet again. 

So here I am, spending part of my vacation, huddled beneath the deathly still stalks, my hands stained brown from the sandy loam that makes up the soil in these parts, a high sun overhead, sweat beading across my bare back and neck, Snow Patrol tunes blasting my ears from the Sansa player hooked to the belt of my shorts, pulling enormous weeds, weeds that have had weeks of head start as I hawked books across the northland, wondering if I’ll ever learn. Ever come to realize that a day is twenty-four hours, of which, at the very least, I need to spend seven or eight hours asleep, recharging my internal batteries.

It’s a day long penance, this weeding of the neglected garden. And then there are the black raspberry canes to be trimmed. My favorite crop from the garden, those black raspberry. This summer, for whatever reason, the berries didn’t come. The past two years,  there’ve been enough sweet berries from the canes for Rene’ to put up jam. This year, we’ve had a bumper crop of the garden variety red raspberries; so many that neighbors stopped over and picked gallons after my wife and I picked what we needed. But the black ones? Not so good.

No preserves this year, I lament as I hack away at the dead stalks and braid new twine to hold the green shoots off the dusty ground. That’s a shame.

My disappointment over the black raspberries is mollified by the fact that our sweet corn, two varieties, is in silk and ready to eat. Potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, and onions are also ready. The melons, pumpkins, squash, and zucchini are progressing. Only God knows whether they’ll come to fruition in time for the harvest sale in early October at our church, when we donate those crops to raise funds for Sunday school.

Six hours under a brutal sun spent bending and pulling, hacking and raking, and finally, tilling the loamy soil, and the garden is fit for a photo spread in Good Housekeeping. On the rear porch of our house, I slip into my swimsuit and massage my weary leg and back muscles with stiff fingers before heading to the river, where cold, near-autumnal water, awaits.

Sunday evening. I mix fresh tomatoes from the garden into a tossed salad and boil up ears of new corn. They are wonderful.

Peace.

Mark

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Gerry, The Bishop, Jackson Browne, and FinnGrand Fest 2010 (Parts 1-3)

(Posted August 6, 2010)
Tuesday. I’m a few minutes late to meet publisher, Finnish culture aficionado, and master kantele builder, Gerry Henkel at Amazing Grace Bakery in Duluth for breakfast. I’m on my way to FinnGrand Fest in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario (“The Soo”) to spend the week selling books, primarily Suomalaiset: People of the Marsh, to Finns (yes, the ones from Finland), Finnish Americans, and Finnish Canadians. I spy Gerry across the dimly lit basement bakery, a little piece of Greenwich Village on Duluth’s waterfront, and wave.

“Hei,” Gerry says with a smile as I pile into an abused chair across an even more abused wooden table from the man.”Hello.”

We chat for a minute or two about why he’s not going to the festival and then, Gerry, who’s something of a Finnish leprechaun in terms of wit, demeanor, and stature, hands me a long cardboard box.

“What’s this?”

“It’s yours. For all you’ve done for Finnish American culture with your book. And for taking a load of the New World Finn with you to the festival. It’s a big help to me.”

Gerry has handed me a rare treasure: a handcrafted, one-of-a-kind Gerry Henkel five string kantele, the Finnish national instrument.

“I can’t.”

“But you must.”

I strum discordant steel strings, the Eastern European sound carrying me back to the countless Finnish festivals and events I’ve been at as spectator, author, guest, and speaker (including a lecture given in Turku, Finland) since Suomalaiset was released..

“I’m touched,” I say with genuine fondness for the craftsmanship embodied in the little instrument.

“But I don’t know…”

The kantele builder cuts me short.

“You can go on line and learn,” Gerry offers through a soft smile.

The waitress stops by, pours coffee for both of us, and takes my order.

After a fine meal of homemade oatmeal pancakes, I load 100 copies of Gerry’s newspaper (a wonderful piece of cultural journalism that anyone with an interest in art, poetry, music, or prose should subscribe to) into my Pacifica and roar east towards Wisconsin.

Eight hours later, I’m checking my books through Canadian customs, hoping like hell that the only items Henkel put in the cardboard box are his complimentary newspapers.

More tomorrow. I’ll keep the blogs up in sequence so you can read them one at a time or read the entire story in one sitting, your choice.

But please consider subscribing to New World Finn. No B.S., it’s a great little paper and your subscription will keep the presses running and the paper coming!

Just follow this link to find out more and read a sample PDF version of New World Finn:

http://www.kantele.com/nwfwebsite/index.html

Kiitos (thank you), Gerry.

And rauha (peace)

Marko Mungerinen

Gerry, The Bishop, Jackson Browne, and FinnGrand Fest 2010 (Part 2)
(Posted August 5, 2010)
My Kamping Kabin at the KOA is kozy. Say that really fast three times and you might start to believe it. Actually, the cabin is OK. One room. A full sized bed, plastic mattress, no sheets. A picnic table. A set of bunk beds where I can store my clothes. A fan. An overhead light. That’s about it. Me and the cabin for six nights, six days.
Wednesday. I set up my table in the concourse of the Essar Center, the hockey arena where the Soo Greyhounds play, for FinnGrand Fest. Few customers show. I sell a couple of books.This better not be a sign of things to come.

I walk along the waterfront. The festival is smack dab downtown Sault Ste. Marie, just a stone’s throw from the St. Mary’s River, where Lake Superior finds freedom. The sky is blue and wet with humidity. But it doesn’t rain.

Thursday, festival traffic picks up. I begin to sell copies of Suomalaiset. To Canadian Finns, American Finns, English Finns, Australian Finns, Finnish Finns.

Now this is more like it.

I’ve always done well at Finnish festivals. The simple fact is that, in the US, 80% of all books are bought by women. American men don’t read. And many American women don’t read. Well, Finns, even those a few generations removed from their ancestral homeland, read. And they like Suomalaiset. That’s a good thing.

But FinnGrand fest isn’t just about me selling books. It’s about a people, the Finns, getting together to celebrate their art, language, and culture. All around me, Finnish, in various dialects and versions (Finnglish being a blend of Finnish and English favored by Minnesota Iron Rangers) can be heard in animated conversations; reunions of old friends and relatives from places far distant. On the Essar arena stage, Finnish musicians perform throughout the day. Colorfully costumed dancers waltz, tango, and polka across the cool cement floor of the Essar, where, in just a few months’ time, Canadian boys will be slamming each other against hockey boards. Folk singing groups start off each day with tightly rendered versions of “Oh Canada”,”The Star Spangled Banner”, and “Maamme”, the unofficial Finnish national anthem. The songs bring chills to my spine. I am immersed in a tightly constructed, brilliantly colored wall of foreign culture and sound. And I love it.

Friday, I sell more books. I also select programs from the festival brochure to attend, including the screening of a new documentary film about Tom Sukanen, “Sisu”, which chronicles Sukanen’s dream to build a steamboat in the middle of the Saskatchewan prairie, sail it up the Saskatchewan River to Hudson Bay, and back to Finland.

My own unofficial translation of the word “sisu” is fortitude. Or stubborn resolve: The grit and strength of character displayed by the Finns in resisting the Soviets, in coming to North America and farming rocky patches of soil, in taking risks during labor uprisings during the early 20th century. I’m intrigued by this aspect of Finnishness. Always have been.

By happenstance, I meet Tom’s granddaughter and sell her a copy of Suomalaiset. We talk about history and writing and the truth, and she convinces me to attend the screening.

I walk to a sidewalk cafe a few blocks from the movie house where I happen upon a couple working the booth next to mine in the tori (marketplace). They’re from Thunder Bay. We met during the festival. They invite me to share their table. We talk, eat good food, and down cold beer against the humid warmth of early evening. I thank them for their kindness and we go our separate ways until the morning.

Entering the darkened theater, I search for an empty seat. The audience is in place, waiting for the film to begin, sipping wine, beer and coffee at tables throughout the main floor of the theater. I find a spot, situate my mug of coffee, and sit next to an elderly gentleman.

“I’m Mark, from Duluth,” I say, reaching to shake the man’s hand.

“”Roy, from Erie, Pennsylvania. This is my daughter and my wife,” he replies with a firm handshake.

As the evening progresses, I learn Roy’s life story. He’s a native of Ironwood, Michigan. Went to Michigan Tech. Graduated with an engineering degree. Moved around a bit. Then the conversation gets interesting.

“I was the belly gunner on a B-24 Liberator,” Roy quietly reveals. “When I finished 50 missions, they sent me home. did it in less than nine months.”

Understand. The belly gunner in a B-24 was strapped in, upside down, operating twin 50 caliber machine guns, in a Plexiglas bubble hanging from the underside of the lumbering bomber. If the plane’s landing gear became disabled and the gunner couldn’t get out, his bubble became the de facto landing gear.

B-24 Maxwell Liberator Bomber (Wikipedia)

We watch the film. I point out that the sequence depicting Biwabik, Minnesota is in error: that there are no vast open fields of wheat in NE Minnesota. At the movie’s conclusion, we listen as Sukanen’s granddaughter points out inaccuracies in the film. I say my goodbyes to Roy and his family and head back to the lonely confines of my cabin.

Saturday, traffic at the Essar is brisk. An elderly gentleman and his wife approach my table. He confidently selects a copy of my Finn book and hands it to me with a twenty. I make change, sign the book, exchange brief pleasantries, and they move on. I realize, too late, that I just sold a book to Roy without personalizing the inscription.

Mark, you idiot, I lament. You owe the man more than some mundane, off-the-cuff signature.

I leave my table. I scurry around the Essar in search of Roy from Erie and his wife. I don’t find them.

You freakin’ insensitive, egomaniacal dolt.

I take a deep breath and return to waiting on customers. An hour or so later, the real Roy appears with his wife and buys a book. I’d made a mistake. It wasn’t Roy who bought a book earlier. I quickly mend the perceived wrong:

To Roy: An American hero. Thanks for your service to your country.

And all is right with the world.

Rauha.

Marko

 

Gerry, The Bishop, Jackson Browne, and FinnGrand Fest 2010 (Conclusion)
It finally happens. Lightning crashes. The skies open. The thick web of humid air releases its bounty and I listen to rain pelt the metal roof of the little KOA Kamping Kabin that’s been my home for nearly a week while I attend FinnGrand Fest in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario.
In the morning, as I shuffle off to the shower in my jammies, flip flops, and T-shirt, a change of clothes and my toiletry bag in hand, the dew is thick on the newly mown grass. The moisture’s cold on my bare toes as I labor to put one foot ahead of another. I’m tired. Dog tired. Selling books to Finns is not as easy as it sounds.My morning routine has been to make this long and peaceful trek to the shower building, returning refreshed, clean, and newly dressed to make my lunch for the day (peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, an apple, some Ritz Bits, a granola bar, and two bottles of water). Once lunch is tucked away in my carrying bag, I eat a couple of breakfast bars, down a jug of cold water, and ponder the day. If there’s a bit of extra time before nine o’clock, the usual start of the tori (market), I’ll read a bit from one of the books I brought along, or the book I bought here, at the festival, from Finnish crime novelist Jarko Sipila. (You can read reviews of what I was reading under “Mark’s Reviews” above, on the dashboard.)

Saturday, business, which, on any normal Saturday of any normal festival, is usually the blockbuster day for sales, is about equal to Friday. The customers are steady. They stop, browse, chat, and occasionally buy. Suomalaiset is an easy sell. Pigs has some adherents. Doc the Bunny ends up in a few shopping bags. But my biography of my environmentalist, Liberal, uncle, Mr. Environment? It continues to be a difficult sell. Shouldn’t be. The book, according to reviewers is well written. But, after all, I am in Canada, far removed from Willard’s native Minnesota. Still, you’d think his connection to cleaning up the Great Lakes would draw more interest. It doesn’t.

I begin to notice a steady stream of older women, sprinkled with a few older men, who amble by, all wearing name tags that say they’re from “Forbes, MN”.

That’s odd. I didn’t realize Forbes was that big.

It isn’t. The charter bus company that brought a load of seventy older Finns from Minnesota’s Iron Ranges is from Forbes and, by error, the home base of the bus company became home to all of its passengers. I share a few good laughs with some of the Forbians about the fact that there are more folks from Forbes at Finn Fest than have ever likely lived there.

Later, I spend an hour in a Delta Hotel conference room talking to a group of thirty or so festival attendees about using history and research in writing. The time flies by. I answer a few questions. And then it’s back to my booth to close up for the day.

“You’re coming to hear us sing, aren’t you?” Borge, a retired professor of Finnish studies who, along with his wife, owns a small press, asks.

Borge catches me as I am walking by his booth.

“Didn’t know you could sing,” I reply. “When’s the concert?”

“Right after the tori closes. At a church a few blocks away.”

I nod and continue on. But, with nothing else on my agenda, listening to Finnish folk songs in an old downtown church doesn’t sound too bad. I buy a ticket. I’m not disappointed. The hour I spend beneath the dome of the old church’s sanctuary in a wooden pew is filled with the soaring sounds of voice, strings, accordion, guitar, woodwinds, and thumping bass. It’s ten dollars well spent.

The local mall is near the Essar Center. I make the short trip to the shopping center to pick up a Subway sandwich for dinner and do some shopping for my wife and twelve-year-old son. I find some earrings for Rene’ and a neat replica Soo Greyhounds hockey jersey for Jack. Then it’s time to make my way back to the Grand Theater for another film.

I watch the movie, a rough cut of an educational piece intended to explain the origins of the Finnish epic poem, The Kalevala, to children. The two sisters who spearheaded the project prelude the film with some very fine piano and violin music. That, unfortunately, is the highlight of the evening. I watch the film, but in the end, I have no better understanding of the story of The Kalevala than when it began. What the heck is a sampo? Why all the thunder and crashing seas? Who the hell is Vainamionen anyway?

Sunday morning and it all begins anew in my Kamping Kabin for the last time. I pack my belongings into my singular suitcase, check under the beds for migrant clothing, and load the Pacifica for the ride into town. The tori doesn’t start until noon so I have several hours to kill. The festival is supposed to wrap up by four. I want to be on the International Bridge, on my way home, by no later than two.

I consider attending an Anglican church service. After all, I’m an Episcopalian, the American sister church to the Anglican faith. Instead, I opt to wander into the Essar and, under dimmed lights, read a bit more about Estonia, the topic I’m considering for a new novel.

Estonians and Finns: Where in the hell does that come from?

Then I remember that there’s an ecumenical worship service in the arena from ten until noon. I put my book down and make my way to the opposite side of the cavernous space, find a seat amongst the Finns, and listen to a Pentecostal pastor and the Evangelical Lutheran Bishop of Helsinki preach the Gospel. The music, provided by a mass choir of mixed gender and a stunning youth orchestra from East Helsinki, soars to the rafters of the big barn. Kristel Niemi, a twenty-something folkie from Toronto, blows the roof off the place with her rendition  of “The Lord’s Prayer” as the service comes to an end.

Sunday sees the last copy of Suomalaiset I have with me (or in stock) tucked into a customer’s bag. It’s time to head for home. I pack my books and accessories into the Pacifica, say my goodbyes, and drive onto the International Bridge linking Canada to the States. As I wait in the single lane of the bridge high above the St. Mary’s River in stifling heat, the air conditioner working overtime, the engine running (and the disaster in the Gulf spinning in my mind), a laker makes its way through the American locks towards Lake Superior.

Amazing.

“Did you know you have to pay a surcharge anytime you return from a commercial trip outside the States?” the U.S. Boarder agent asks.

Of course I didn’t know that.

“How much?”

“”Ten seventy five.”

I hand the man the money.

Free of the gridlock of the border, I wind out the van’s V-6 and roar onto Highway 28. I pull out a CD my son Chris bought me for Father’s Day. As Michigan breezes past, Jackson Browne (never sounding better to this tired American) and his longtime bandmate, David Lindley break into an acoustic version of Browne’s classic recorded live in Spain.

I’ve been runnin’ down the road tryin’ to loosen my load

I got seven women on my mind…

Passing through bucolic Munising, Michigan, the calm waters of the big lake spreading out like a blue pasture over my right shoulder, stark white terns turning in an equally blue sky, I smile.

I am running on empty, I think. But I’m on my way home.

Rauha.

Marko Mungerinen


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